This article was originally published on WHerMoments
Royal fashion isn’t frivolous: it’s a matter of great importance, especially when it comes to events with a global audience. And the world was certainly watching, with sadness, at the state funeral of Queen Elizabeth II. Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle both wore uncomplicated black outfits, but they incorporated tiny and touching details that poignantly paid tribute to the late Queen.
Royals in mourning
It would be unthinkable to wear anything but black during a royal period of mourning. This is a duty the royals take very seriously.
When the Queen first became the monarch in 1952 she had to wear black for a time to mark the passing of her father, King George VI. Never mind that she’d been in Kenya and not packed any black clothes: it was still expected.
The historic rule of black
As soon as the young Queen’s plane touched down in the U.K. her ladies-in-waiting were quickly dispatched to find her a black dress.
Once one was acquired, she got changed on the plane, and then and only then could she face the cameras. Ever since that incident, royals have always traveled with a black outfit to hand, just in case.
In the spotlight
Kate and Meghan stuck firmly to tradition throughout the whole mourning period, but it was no doubt a very challenging time for them both.
Not only were they grieving someone who’d meant a lot to them, but they had to do so in front of the whole world’s media. If they’d put a foot wrong fashion-wise, it could have been disastrous.
Elegant suits and dresses
Luckily, they didn’t put a foot wrong. A few days after the Queen’s death, both women and their husbands did a walkabout in Windsor to meet members of the public.
Princes William and Harry wore suits while Kate and Meghan wore black dresses: a long-sleeved one for Kate and a short-sleeved one for Meghan. And their jewelry was kept to an absolute minimum.
High emotion
They did the same thing on September 14, the day the late Queen’s coffin was moved from Buckingham Palace to Westminster Hall to lie in state. Cameras were there, and both Kate and Meghan were photographed looking emotional.
But no matter their grief, they still had a job to do, and that job was to uphold royal traditions during a difficult time.
Hats and hand-me-downs
Meghan and Kate, along with all the other female members of the family, wore hats during the service. And the jewelry was mostly hand-me-down pieces and gifts.
Kate’s leaf brooch had previously been worn by the Queen, and her earrings by another late royal: William’s mother, Diana, the previous Princess of Wales. Meanwhile, Meghan’s earrings were another gift from the Queen.
Beautiful gift
Meghan has spoken before about the day in 2018 when her grandmother-in-law gifted her the earrings. It had been the occasion of their first solo outing together, so a big deal for them both.
In 2021 the duchess had told Oprah, “We had breakfast together that morning, and she’d given me a beautiful gift. I just really love being in her company.”
White gemstones
The jewelry pieces were diamond and pearls, and that was also something symbolic.
Jewelry expert Lauren Kiehna told BuzzFeed News, “In Western cultures, white gemstones like diamonds and pearls, paired with black clothing, are traditional choices for mourning. The Queen wore pearls and diamonds for funerals, memorials, and remembrance services throughout her entire reign.”
Low-key
Pearls especially are used for mourning attire, as jewelry historian Vivenne Becker explained to Vogue magazine in September. She said, “It’s very much a tradition. It’s all about the suppression of color, and also pearls are not glittery or brash.
By choosing them, you are being low-key and respectful.” Indeed, there was barely a spot of color during the mourning period for the Queen.
Sandringham
The day after the procession there was a second set of mourners for Kate to greet, the ones gathered at the Sandringham Estate. On September 15 they got to see Kate up close a few days before the state funeral.
By then she had a new title, one that passed down to her upon the Queen’s death — Princess of Wales. But she wasn’t dressed in princess-like attire, just a simple black dress and black accessories, plus jewelry.
Flashes of silver
Royal fashion fans were able to identify the dress as an Alexander McQueen creation, and the coat as most likely a Catherine Walker one. But Kate’s jewelry was perhaps the most interesting.
Her earrings were a pair she had worn before, a gift from the Queen, and around her neck there was a prominent but not-too-flashy crucifix necklace. Don’t forget, the royals are also meant to uphold the Christian religion.
Black clothes
And then came the state funeral, a truly daunting affair for everyone involved as well as a sad one. According to etiquette experts Debrett’s, black clothes are compulsory of course, but there are other rules for ladies.
Dresses and coats should be knee-length, and the head should be covered by a black hat. Face-covering veils can also be worn if desired.
Repeating
Kate and Meghan both very much abided by the rules. Neither of them were remotely the center of attention on the day and that was entirely the point. Glamour magazine wrote that the women “wore black versions of dresses they’d worn to honor the monarch on previous occasions.”
It noted, “This is hardly the first time either Kate Middleton or Meghan Markle has repeated a look… They may be royal, but that doesn’t mean they’re wasteful.”
Black and white
The new Princess of Wales stuck with what she knew worked for her. She wore a dress coat by one of her favorite designers, Alexander McQueen.
It was a black version of a dress she’d worn on a previous happy occasion she’d spent with the Queen, the Trooping of Color parade at the Platinum Jubilee. Very appropriate, and very somber.
Necklace
Kate also had on a striking pearl necklace, one important enough to have a name — the Japanese Pearl Choker, so called because it was gifted to the Queen by the nation of Japan.
It was not only a tribute to Elizabeth but doubled as one to her husband Prince Philip too, because Kate had worn that same necklace to his funeral.
Family heirloom
Kate’s earrings also had meaning. They were the Bahrain Pearl Drop earrings, which have a deep and rich history.
The pearls had been given to the Queen by the Hakim of Bahrain on the occasion of her wedding to Philip, and having been made into earrings, they passed through the hands of many royals before finding their way to Kate, including those of Diana.
Veil
The new Princess of Wales also had a veil covering her face, which was not compulsory but had a lot of deep-seated tradition behind it. In 1952 Elizabeth herself wore one to her father’s funeral, but the practice goes back even further than that.
Queen Victoria, ancestor of the current royals, wore a mourning veil for the rest of her life after the death of her husband.
Armor
Website Page Six interviewed Jessica Storoschuk of An Historian About Town about the significance of the veil. She said, “The tradition of mourning veils dates back several centuries, and has a basis in monastic dress.”
But also, it “was often considered to be ‘armor’ and would shield their grief from the public.” And Kate was certainly being watched by the public.
Fond memories
Meghan, just like Kate, wore a funeral outfit that harked back to a happy memory with the Queen. She wore a black cape dress, a variation of the navy dress she’d worn to celebrate Elizabeth’s 92nd birthday in 2018.
That had been just weeks before Meghan had married Harry and become an official part of the royal family.
Cape dress
The media praised Meghan’s simple dress. Hello! magazine wrote, “Duchess Meghan adhered to royal mourning etiquette, donning a sleek black cape dress from Stella McCartney.
Featuring a crisp boater neckline, batwing sleeves and midi length, the garment was an apt yet sophisticated choice for the emotional event.” It was popular with people watching the funeral and tweeting along, as well.
Pure elegance
One person wrote, “No bee-keeper net, no flowers and bows, no flashy jewelry and yet Meghan looks the most gorgeous and stylish, shining in pure elegance, simplicity and high fashion.”
The jewelry was indeed not flashy — the duchess wore the same gifted earrings she had worn throughout the whole mourning period, the ones given to her by the Queen.
Standing tall
Interestingly, Meghan’s cape dress drew comments about its psychological benefits.
Stylist Cachita Hynes told website The List, “A cape dress can give you the extra length in your spine to stand tall and feel powerful, but honestly it can also feel like a long-needed hug.” And at a funeral, especially one where the whole world is watching, that’s exactly what you need.
Navy
But what did Kate’s and Meghan’s royal husbands wear to the funeral? Well, William and Harry appeared to defy the dress code considerably more than the women did, or so it seemed at first.
During the walkabout in Windsor to meet the public they didn’t wear black like Kate and Meghan, but rather dark-navy-blue suits with black ties.
Dress code
But, as it turned out, this wasn’t actually a breach of the dress code.
Fashion coach Miranda Holder told newspaper the Daily Express, “In terms of what Prince William and Prince Harry chose to wear, the code for gentlemen is actually a dark-blue suit and a black tie.” Then-prince Charles actually wore the same thing to Diana’s funeral in 1997.
Uniforms
Still, at the funeral itself, there were different rules. Holder told the newspaper, “If it’s going to be a ceremony, a vigil, or some sort of official event, all the gentlemen will need to be in military uniform because they have their royal titles.”
And that’s what happened, although since Harry had stepped down as an active royal, he wore a black suit at the funeral.
Young royals
What about Kate’s children? Well, Prince Louis was deemed too young to attend the funeral, but Prince George and Princess Charlotte both went. George, second-in-line to the throne, did what his father and uncle had done during the mourning period and wore dark blue.
Charlotte was in black just like her mother, and there was a sweet detail included on her outfit too.
Horseshoe
Charlotte wore a brooch on her outfit, the first time she’d ever worn a royal brooch, and it was a special one.
It was not only a gift to Charlotte from the Queen, just like Kate’s and Meghan’s jewelry pieces, but it was also in the shape of a tiny horseshoe — a symbol of the Queen’s famous love of horses.
Lady Louise
Charlotte wasn’t the only granddaughter of the Queen to have worn something horse-related to the funeral. Lady Louise Windsor, the daughter of Prince Edward, wore a silver necklace with a horse design.
She was always said to have been the Queen’s favorite granddaughter, and they both absolutely loved horse-riding. Earlier in 2022 Elizabeth had been visibly moved while watching Louise drive a carriage.
Making her proud
The Queen’s funeral was no doubt a saddening day for Kate, Meghan and all the royals, but they pulled it off flawlessly and used fashion the way it was meant to be used: to send messages.
Glamour magazine wrote of the princess and duchess on the day of the ceremony, “Queen Elizabeth, who prized both practicality and modesty, would certainly have approved.” But eagle-eyed fans would have noticed that touching hidden details could be seen in more than just the fashion choices.
The flowers were just as precious
During the funeral, the crown jewels were ceremoniously removed from the top of the Queen's coffin, symbolically ending her 70-year reign. What remained was the wreath of flowers.
And although the flowers weren't encrusted with precious jewels, they were potentially the most significant object on top of the Queen's coffin. You see, every flower in the wreath signified a different moment in the Queen’s life or a quality that she embodied.
The Queen's wedding bouquet
The flowers that made up the wreath were personally requested by her son King Charles III, and every sprig was chosen for a reason.
The most obvious tribute goes back to one of the most important days of the Queen's life — her wedding day. Like her funeral wreath, the Queen's wedding bouquet was also filled with hidden meanings.
A legendary sprig of myrtle
Princess Elizabeth’s wedding bouquet was made up of white orchids, a symbol of faith and innocence, and a sprig of myrtle. This was no ordinary sprig of myrtle, either. Legend has it that the sprig was clipped from the bush grown from the myrtle in Queen Victoria's wedding bouquet.
Queen Elizabeth II's wedding myrtle was planted just like Queen Victoria's so that it could be used in future royal ceremonies such as her coronation.
Flowers play an important role
It isn't surprising that flowers play such a meaningful role during royal ceremonies. Britain's royals have long enjoyed gardening and flowers, and Queen Elizabeth II once said that "plants, trees and flowers [had] been a source of pleasure" from her childhood onward.
The Queen was known to frequent the impressive gardens at her many estates — which made finding the blooms for her funeral wreath a no-brainer.
Westminster in bloom
Yes, the flowers that made up the funeral wreath were mainly taken from the gardens at Buckingham Palace, Clarence House, and Highgrove House, so the Queen's coffin was adorned with the flowers she'd admired for years.
Westminster Abbey itself was in bloom, with additional bouquets being made up of Asiatic lilies, (a symbol of purity), gladiolus (a symbol of honor and remembrance), and alstroemeria (a symbol of devotion). The sprig of myrtle found in the actual funeral wreath was perhaps the most poignant, however.
The myrtle lives on
Remember how the myrtle from the Queen's wedding bouquet was planted for future ceremonies? Well, a sprig of myrtle was clipped from that particular bush and added to the funeral flowers on top of the Queen's coffin.
It was a touching tribute not only to the Queen's lifelong devotion to her duties, but to her equally strong devotion to Prince Philip, who died in 2021.
Symbols of strength, love, and rebirth
The sprig of myrtle was joined by English oak, a national symbol of strength and love. It was also thought to symbolize Queen Elizabeth’s constant and unwavering duty to her people. You may have also noted the sweet peas, which are the flower for April, Elizabeth’s birth month.
Not only were they thought to be loved by the Queen, but they also represent happiness and goodbyes — fitting for a funeral.
Weeping birch
When Queen Elizabeth’s coffin was carried out of the abbey, many members of her family could be seen wiping away their tears. So it’s also fitting that the floral displays decorating the inside of the abbey contained weeping birch. Weeping birch is a particularly heartfelt addition, considering how it usually represents the spirit of rebirth — of things coming full circle.
There's no better way to celebrate the end of an era than by tactfully ushering in a new one, something Charles III no doubt kept in mind when he added his own personal touches to his mother’s funeral flowers.
Understated yet striking
According to Charles III's wishes, the funeral bouquet itself was, much like Queen, understated yet striking — memorable without being over the top.
It was made up of autumnal hydrangea (a symbol of gratitude), sedum (peace), dahlias (commitment), and scabious (purity) — all qualities the Queen embodied. Most eye-catching, though, were the roses.
The roses
Though all the flowers followed a pink, gold, burgundy, and white color scheme, the roses stood out. That's because these roses were among the Queen's favorites. And like many of the other flowers at the funeral, they came directly from her palace garden.
The inclusion of the roses was especially meaningful considering the royal family's close association with that flower over the years.
The Queen Elizabeth II Rose
Like Queen Victoria before her, Queen Elizabeth lent her name to a new rose hybrid. Officially named "The Queen Elizabeth II Rose," the light pink tea rose was created specifically for the Queen's Platinum Jubilee in 2022.
The rose was bred by Harkness Roses, who said the flower was a "superb tribute" to the late Queen. Charles, too, was sure to honor his mother's memory by making an unusual request about the flowers.
Charles' hidden message
Charles III insisted that the flower arrangements all be made with the environment in mind, without the use of floral foam. Some people interpreted this subtle decision as a sign that Charles III is ready to step into his mother's shoes and further modernize the monarchy.
His other tribute to the Queen was less subtle, but just as heartfelt: he left a message inside the bouquet.
"In loving and devoted memory"
Nestled within the funeral bouquet was a card from Charles to his late mother. On the card, he wrote, "In loving and devoted memory. Charles R." The "R" stands for "Rex," which is Latin for "King."
Charles using his sovereign signature on the card as opposed to "your son" isn't a tactless show of power, but of duty — something his mother valued above all.
The Queen's memory lives on
In this way, Queen Elizabeth's memory lives on.
It also lives on in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, Clarence House, and Highgrove House, where more roses — and perhaps even the Queen's favorite flower, Lily of the Valley, a symbol of happiness — continue to flourish.